“We’re now six minutes in, and she’s used almost ten products.” This is how Dr. Molly Hales introduces the video abstract for her latest study on TikTok skin care trends published in Pediatrics. The clip in question shows a young girl layering various products—acids, toners, serums—each claiming to deliver more radiant, clearer, and brighter skin.
This child is not an exception. In a recent analysis of 100 popular TikTok skin care videos posted by users between the ages of 7 and 18, researchers at Northwestern Medicine discovered that the average routine consisted of six products, had a total cost of approximately $168, and received over 1.1 million views. Only 25% of the videos included sunscreens. Among the 25 most-viewed videos, regimens averaged 11 products, with some containing up to 21 potentially irritating active ingredients.
As an oncologist, I often consider how to shield individuals from long-term damage. However, you don’t have to work in cancer care to feel alarmed by these results. We are witnessing a generation of children taking part in skin care routines motivated less by dermatological necessity and more by aesthetic aspirations—driven by algorithms, commercialism, and largely unchecked practices.
Layered ingredients, layered risks
The study published in Pediatrics revealed that many of these routines included overlapping active components—such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like citric and lactic acid, and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid. In certain routines, the same ingredient was featured in up to six consecutive products. One example included ten distinct products amounting to $244, with multiple uses of citric and lactic acids—all of which could cause irritation when overused. Notably, sunscreen, the fundamental form of protection, was notably absent.
In one particular video, the child developed a visible red, painful rash while recording. “If anyone knows how to stop it from burning, that would be really appreciated,” she mentioned before ending the video. The routines often featured ingredients that raised sun sensitivity, compromised the skin barrier, and increased the likelihood of allergic contact dermatitis.
However, dermatologic issues are just part of the overall concern.
Skin care masked as health
The authors highlighted that these videos frequently propagated perfectionism and unrealistic beauty ideals—framed through the lens of “health.” Terms like “porcelain,” “glass,” or “glowy” skin were prevalent, suggesting subtler implications concerning race and skin tone. The difficulty in monitoring this trend is compounded by its algorithm-driven nature.
The researchers created new TikTok accounts set to the age of 13—the platform’s minimum age requirement—and used the “For You” page to replicate a preteen’s viewing experience. They did not actively search for skin care videos; TikTok brought them to the forefront. This indicates that parents, pediatricians, and educators may have limited knowledge regarding what content children are consuming—and how frequently.
While certain videos depicted skin care as a means of bonding, particularly in “mommy and me” formats, the overarching message was clear: more is preferable. And children are assimilating this message.
We still do not understand the extent to which these routines are affecting dermatologic diagnoses or young people’s mental well-being. Yet the trend speaks to a deeper issue: a rising unease among children with simply possessing normal, unfiltered skin.
A plea for simplicity—and direction
Let’s be straightforward: Children do not require 10-step skin care routines. Most don’t need AHAs, retinoids, or exfoliating acids at all. Families shouldn’t spend $244 on regimens promising “glow”—they need sincere, accessible advice rooted in science and simplicity.
These routines, driven by social media, may appear harmless, but their risks greatly overshadow any cosmetic benefits. This is the medical truth. It’s also a cultural reality. At a time when children are marketed adult routines disguised as wellness, we must challenge this with evidence, clarity, and a reminder that effective skin care shouldn’t cause discomfort to deliver results.
Khushali S. Jhaveri is a hematologist-oncologist and assistant professor of medicine at the Indiana University School of Medicine, affiliated with the Indiana University Simon Comprehensive Cancer Center. She specializes in lymphoma, focusing on T-cell engaging therapies, outcomes in diffuse large B-cell lymphoma, and the implications of sarcopenia on treatment response. A former chief fellow for communication and wellness at Moffitt Cancer Center, Dr. Jhaveri also extensively writes about the intersection of medicine and society. Her work has been featured in ASH Clinical News, including the reflective piece “Redefining Home, Embracing Resilience: Life as an Immigrant in Medicine,” as well as in Medscape, where she discussed evolving treatment paradigms in “Are We on the Brink of Redefining Follicular Lymphoma?” and covered survivorship in “Cost of Survival: How Treatment Choices Shape Life After Cancer.”
You can follow her work on her website or connect via Instagram, X.