My spouse, Kathy, was diagnosed with stage 4 end-stage renal disease. She was gradually succumbing to the illness, yet she never ceased to embrace life. Her determination in handling peritoneal dialysis enabled us to travel, despite the logistical hurdles we faced. Ireland had been on our wishlist for ages, inspired by Kathy and Stephanie’s prior trip during our time in Peoria. After careful preparation, we booked our flights using points from Orlando, knowing this route would lessen the distance Kathy had to walk with her cane.

The trip was anything but smooth. In contrast to the remarkable service of ANA and Qatar, American Airlines’ older planes and lack of hospitality were a disappointing experience. Upon our arrival in Dublin at 5:20 a.m., worn out after 12 hours in the sky, we found no assistance waiting for us. Eventually, someone brought a wheelchair for Kathy, but I had to endure a painful kilometer-long trek with my cane, a grueling start to our adventure.

Our experience with the rental car was a saga of its own. The Hertz representative insisted our reserved mid-size SUV wouldn’t accommodate our luggage, pushing us to upgrade to a full-size Audi A6. While the vehicle was plush, we soon realized that luxury cars weren’t suited for Irish roads. Regardless, we embarked towards Galway, traversing the toll roads and soaking in the stunning views of the Connemara Loop.

We visited the iconic bridge from The Quiet Man, relishing the cinematic reminiscence before reaching Galway. In Galway, an accident involving a sideswipe left our rental car damaged and our nerves rattled. We informed the Garda (Irish Police) and settled into the House Hotel, thankful for two nights to recharge. Galway provided its own share of enjoyable moments, including dinner at the Purple Door Café and a boat tour to the Aran Islands, where Kathy selected a beautifully knit blue cardigan and we reveled in the beauty of the Cliffs of Moher from the water.

However, Kathy’s journey took a toll on her physically. After a taxing day, she tripped over her cane in the hotel, resulting in a black eye that lingered throughout our travels. EMS offered Kathy a cold pack for her injury, but she remained undeterred by the setback. We proceeded with our trip to Derry, pausing at Shannon Airport to report the accident and replace the damaged passenger-side mirror. Hertz had no replacement car available but reassured us that our car was fine, a claim that would later be proven untrue.

In Dingle, we stayed at The Waterfront Hotel, where the owner personally assisted in parking our car closer to the hotel and organized our transportation to John Benny’s Pub. With Kathy’s old phone finally functioning with an Irish SMS card, we navigated more easily. That evening, we celebrated our survival with fish and chips, two pints of Guinness for me, and an apple cider for Kathy. Kathy fell again on the steep path leading to The Boatyard Restaurant, but the attentive staff ensured we had a memorable meal. The following day, we took the Slea Head Drive, passing the poignant white cross on the rocky cape. Then, we continued along the renowned Ring of Kerry, circumventing tour buses by driving in the opposite direction. The ever-changing coastal vistas were breathtaking, each kilometer revealing a fresh panorama.

A highlight in Waterville was the surprising discovery of a Charlie Chaplin statue, honoring one of his favorite vacation spots. A lunch break at The Lobster Bar & Restaurant revitalized us for the final leg toward Kenmare, where we lodged at Watersedge Seaviews, delighting in the serene river views. That evening, we searched for traditional Irish music at O’Donnabhain’s, only to find none, prompting us to move on to P.F. McCarthy’s, where Kathy enjoyed a warm dinner by the fireplace. On Sunday, May 15, we completed the Ring, explored Killarney National Park, and finally returned the damaged vehicle at Dublin Airport. The total repair bill exceeded £7,000, thankfully covered by my credit card insurance.

We checked into The Shelbourne Hotel, where the staff, noting Kathy’s black eye and cane, graciously provided a wheelchair for her duration of stay. The kindness and consideration we received there starkly contrasted with the airlines’ cold indifference. Touring Dublin on the hop-on-hop-off bus was the best approach, given our mobility constraints.

**One final cruise as a couple**

Embarking on a Southern Caribbean cruise, despite Kathy’s dialysis, necessitated meticulous planning and resolve. With manual dialysis as our routine, Kathy utilized her Rollator, and we booked an accessible mini-suite, ensuring:

1. Easy mobility within the cabin.
2. A spacious balcony, providing us with our own private retreat at sea.

The first leg of the cruise was promising; we opted out of the private-island excursion (too much sand for Kathy’s Rollator) but explored St. Thomas via a scenic island drive.

**Dining misadventures and the cruise’s redemption**

Special moments varied. Kathy’s birthday dinner at Crown Grill was delightful; mine at Bistro Sur La Mer was overshadowed by the noise in the atrium.